Saturday 19 April 2014

LIQUID GOLD


Liquid gold, Ayurveda's elixir of life, Food of the Gods – adjectives run out when you want to describe this most sacred and hallowed food often associated with healing, nourishment, longevity and well being. Ghee or Ghrta as they call it in Sanskrit has been mentioned in the Rigveda, the oldest of the Vedas, thus making it one of the most ancient super foods. The Vedas refer to ghee as the first and the most essential among all edible foods. According to the Veda's, ghee is (flawless) Nirdosh food, increases body vigour and vitality, strengthens the body and helps enhance the life span. In my opinion, making ghee is one of the most beautiful and therapeutic of all the food sadhanas. It is a wonderful way to lose yourself in the process and should be performed with lots of love and awareness.

In this post, I will share how to make ghee from butter. Although, not a very ideal process, it is much better than buying ghee. At least it gives you a chance to develop a relationship with the ghee. I believe that commercially produced ghee, (and butter) which is made using many harsh processes and machinery, leads to lessening of its sattvic, nourishing and healing properties and therefore all the more reason to make it at home as much as is possible. When it comes to ghee, the process is as important as the final output.

Most people of my generation usually buy ready-made ghee. Whereas many people from my parents' generation make ghee from milk which is a more authentic process. This involves keeping aside the thick layer of cream from the milk everyday and storing it in a jar in fridge. When the jar is full, curd (NOT yoghurt) is introduced in it. Many commercial enterprises selling ghee skip this very important step. The amount of curd to be introduced in it depends on the season and the temperature outside. The cultures from the curd are left to grow in the cream for a day or two. The cultured cream is then separated from the water and churned into butter. This butter is washed with water for eight times. By the time it is washed for the eighth time, all the white residue has been cleaned and when water is added to the butter to wash it for the eighth time, it remains crystal clear. The butter is now ready for ghee. To imagine that we have gone from this soulful process to “buying ghee” in a gap of just one generation and that the joy which comes from this process has been lost to so many in India is really sad.

No one can talk about Ayurveda without talking about ghee. If had in moderate proportions, the benefits of ghee are tremendous. And so, one thing which surprises me is when many Indians migrate to the West, all of a sudden their perception about ghee changes and most of them stop eating ghee completely. But they continue to happily eat huge amounts of processed cheese in their pizzas and pastas and cheese cakes and sandwiches. I hope that this post will change their views about ghee.

Ghee in scriptures:
Forth from the ocean sprang the wave of sweetness: 
together with the stalk it turned to Amrta, 
That which is holy oil's mysterious title: 
but the Gods' tongue is truly Amrta's centre.
Let us declare aloud the name of Ghrta
and at this sacrifice hold it up with homage. 
So let the Brahman hear the praise we utter.
That oil in triple shape the Gods discovered 
laid down within the Cow, concealed by Panis.
As rushing down the rapids of a river, 
flow swifter than the wind the vigorous currents, 
The streams of oil in swelling fluctuation 
like a red courser bursting through the fences.
Like women at a gathering fair to look on 
and gently smiling, they incline to Agni
The streams of holy oil attain the fuel, 
and Jatavedas joyfully receives them.
Bear to the Gods the sacrifice we offer 
the streams of oil flow pure and full of sweetness.
                                                                          -descriptions of ghee from the hymn named Ghrta in Rigveda

Let the waters, the mothers, purify us,
With ghee let those that purify our ghee purify us
                                                                                  -Yajurveda

It is promotive of memory, intelligence, vital fire, semen, vital essence (ojas), kapha and fat.
It is curative of Vata, Pitta, fever and toxins.
It is the best of all the unctuous substances.
                                                                                 -Charaka

Brahman is the oblation; Brahman is the ghee;
by Brahman is the oblation poured into the fire of Brahman.

                                                                       -Bhagavad Gita

From ghee flows the sustenance of all the worlds

                                                                        -Mahabharata

If you have no money, then beg, borrow or steal, but in some way secure ghee and enjoy life.
                                                                       -Carvaka Muni

General health information:
Ghee is one of the best oils to use for cooking because it has a very high smoke point between 400˚-500˚F (204˚-260˚C). In all my recipes, I include a note saying that one should be careful while heating oil so that it doesn't burn. Overheating oils causes it to burn which damages some of the components in the fat/oil. However, in case of ghee, because of its high smoke point and stable saturated bonds, it does not get burnt and damaged easily.

Lab studies have shown that ghee, if consumed in appropriate amounts, reduces cholesterol both in the serum and intestine. However, people who already have problems of high cholesterol, cardiovascular disease or are obese should be careful when it comes to consuming ghee. Ghee is also rich in antioxidants, helps in absorption of vitamins and minerals and thereby strengthens the immune system. The butter is clarified when you prepare ghee which removes most of the lactose contained in butter. Hence, those who are lactose intolerant can still enjoy ghee without much trouble. However, it may contain some lactose and hence those who are very sensitive to lactose should keep away from ghee. Ghee also lubricates the digestive tract, alleviates hardness in bowels and aids in the elimination of waste products because of its laxative and diuretic effect on the body. It is therefore, an excellent cure for constipation.

Ayurvedic information:
Dosha information: V↓P↓K↓
(Kaphas must have ghee in moderation)
Rasa (primary tastes): Sweet
Virya: Cooling
Vipaka (post digestive effect): Sweet

The texture of ghee is heavy, slow, oily, liquid, dense, soft. According to Ayurveda it has many benefits, common of which are:
  1. It is tridoshic and therefore nourishes ojas, tejas and prana especially ojas. Ghee pacifies Pitta and Vata which are primarily responsible for causing most diseases. According to the Susruta Samhita, ghee is the ultimate remedy for all Pitta related disorders. Kapha predominant individuals should have it in moderation. Also, ghee should be avoided if you have high ama (toxins)
  2. The quality of any fire depends on the fuel. If you use sub standard fuel, there will be fire but there may be other side effects like smoke, odour etc. Similarly, the quality of the digestive fire also depends on the fuel. Ghee is the best fuel as it kindles the agni without aggravating Pitta. In fact, it cools the body. The peculiar feature of Ghee is that it stimulates the digestive secretions while other fats usually slow down the digestive process.
  3. Ghee contains sattvic properties. If it is fed to your digestive fire, it will help increase sattvic qualities in you. If poured into a yagya or havan, it will help increase sattvic qualities in the environment.
  4. Ghee is also a yogavahi— an agent that transports the medicinal properties of herbs into the tissues of the body. In this way, ghee helps to increase the effectiveness of some herbs. It can also be used for massage and serves as a base for herbal ointments. In cooking, when you use ghee for the chaunk, the properties of the spices get diffused and imbibed in the ghee.
  5. Ayurveda considers ghee as a rasayana, food that increases longevity.
  6. Ghee is butter separated from milk solids and water. The components which make the butter go bad are removed and hence ghee has much better shelf life. Ghee must be stored in a cool place (not fridge) and care must be taken that when you use a spoon to scoop the ghee, it is completely dry. Aged ghee is considered to have healing properties and some families have ghee that is over 100-years old which is used purely for healing purposes.
  7. According to Ayurveda, having honey and ghee together in equal proportions is an incompatible food combination.
  8. The ayurvedic properties of ghee are used by many as a justification to consume high amounts of ghee. However, if not had in moderation, it will have adverse effects like obesity and high cholesterol.
Preparation time: 20-25 minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Vegan: No
Ingredients: 500 grams organic butter, silent mind and lots of love.
In terms of equipment, make sure you have a cheese cloth or a stainless steel strainer as shown in the picture at the beginning of the post.

Preparation:
  1. The waxing phase of the moon, also called shukla paksha is considered to have auspicious and nurturing energies. Moon controls Soma – the essence of all life. Ayurveda believes that milk has the essence of grass and ghee has the essence of milk. During the waxing moon phase, Soma is on the rise and hence it is recommended to make ghee during this time or on full moon. So, choose the appropriate day for making ghee.
  2. Maha mrityunjaya mantra or the Triyambakam mantra from the Rigveda and Yajurveda is one of the most potent, balancing and healing of all mantras. It is great to chant this mantra during the entire process of ghee preparation so that the healing vibrations from the mantra get imbibed in the ghee.
  3. Switch off all your phones and make sure you are not in a state of urgency/hurry with anything scheduled after this sadhana. Arrive with your whole being into your kitchen and be present.
  4. Start chanting. Cut the butter into reasonable size cubes. Put these butter cubes in a heavy bottom pan and start heating on a medium flame. The butter will start melting fast. Once all the butter has melted, reduce heat to low or between low and medium.
  5. Now, the fun begins. The ghee will start bubbling in a strange way which very much resembles the boiling mud pools in New Zealand. The surface will be calm for a few seconds, then all of a sudden a big burst. Then again calm for a few seconds, then another big burst so on and so forth (Image 1). This will go on for a while.
  6. Now, the intensity of the bursts will reduce but the frequency will increase. And then gradually the bursting will turn into even and predictable bubbling. Foam will start forming gradually on the surface of the hazy liquid. (Image 2 and 3). Lose yourselves in the wonderful fragrance and focus with one pointedness on the beautiful transformation that is taking place in front of your eyes.
  7. Slowly, most of the surface will be covered by white foam from the continuous even bubbling. The milk solids are rising up. Every once in a while I give it a gentle stir (though in my opinion not necessary) and direct the foam on one side so that I can see what is going on beneath. The liquid beneath the foam will still be hazy. This will go on for a while (Image 4).
  8. The next stage is exactly the same as the previous one except that the liquid beneath the foam will now start turning golden and transparent (Image 5).
  9. Now the foam will start disappearing revealing the transparent liquid gold. It will continue to bubble but there will hardly be any foam (Image 6). Use the spoon again to gently direct any foam that is left to one side and see if you can see the milk solids forming at the bottom. When the ghee is transparent and when you can clearly see the milk solids settled at the bottom, the ghee is ready. Turn the heat off (Image 7). Stop chanting.
  10. Let the ghee stand for 10-15 minutes till it is warm. In image 8, you can clearly see the milk solids at the bottom. If you look carefully, you can even see me holding the camera. Now pour this warm ghee in a glass jar using a stainless steel strainer. The stainless steel strainer is a really great kitchen accessory which I got from India and saves a lot of trouble. If you don't have a stainless steel strainer, you can use cheese cloth to strain the ghee into the glass jar. Close the glass jar. A valuable tip I got from my mother is that if you pour warm ghee into the glass jar and close the glass jar, it gives the ghee a wonderful texture when it solidifies.
  11. Store in a cool dry place. Do not store in a fridge.
Pitfalls:
It is very important to use a heavy bottom pan. If not, the supply of heat will be very high and the butter will burn and turn into dark brown colour. It will have a sharp burnt taste.

Notes:
  1. Preferably use unsalted organic butter for making ghee. However, sometimes it is hard to find unsalted organic butter. In that case, salted organic butter can be used. The ghee from salted butter tastes exactly the same as the ghee made from unsalted butter. Only the salted butter bubbles more vigorously when you are preparing ghee and so make sure that you do not place your face above the pan.
  2. If you are making ghee for the first time, start with a little quantity, like 500 grams of butter. The most important skill one needs to learn with the preparation of ghee is proper supply of heat. And this cannot be explained in black and white in a written recipe because it depends on various factors like the thickness and the shape of the pan, the quality of the butter, the hot plate or gas etc. Once you have practiced preparing ghee in small quantities, you will get a feel for it and then you can make it in larger quantities. If you are using two kilograms or more butter, it would help if you keep stirring the butter more frequently otherwise the butter at the bottom which receives constant heat will burn while the butter at the top will not receive any heat. You will also have to make some changes in the supply of heat as compared to when you prepare ghee in small amounts. 
  3. If you want to try a different flavour, keep heating the ghee till the milk solids turn brown. This gives the ghee a subtle caramelly and nutty flavour. If you want ghee to have the flavour of a specific spice or herb, add the required spice or herb (quantity as per taste) in the beginning once the butter is completely melted and leave it in till the end.
  4. Quite a few people in Australia are selling organic ghee at ridiculously high prices. I checked their websites and some of them are making ghee the same way I described above. The high prices would have been justified if they were following the authentic ayurvedic process but that is not the case. And hence it is better to make your own ghee at home starting with butter as it is much more economical and satisfying.
  5. Please refer my post Getting Started With Ayurveda for understanding of Ayurvedic terms and concepts.

2 comments:

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  2. very nice detailed post!! its beautiful how you described the whole process as a sadhana! inspiring yaar! I make ghee at home but without curdling. I would just heat the stored cream until ghee separates from the solid part. I have no idea whether its good or bad. Do you know? anyways the main difference, I guess, is I take it as a chore and you take it as a sadhana. thats a sea gap, I feel. I am tempted to learn to make ghee exactly as you described. Will try and let you know. Thanks!!

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